Controlled impact on the hub flange — never on the aluminium knuckle — combined with heat and penetrant can work. But a proper hub puller or slide hammer is far safer and much less likely to damage the upright.

Heat applied to the knuckle bore is the most effective method, but keep the flame away from ABS sensors, CV boots, brake hoses and ball joint boots. Warm the aluminium evenly rather than concentrating heat in one spot.

Clean all corrosion from the knuckle bore and apply a thin film of anti-seize or copper grease to the new hub before fitting. This is the single most important step for easy future service.

A DIY hub-and-bearing replacement runs roughly $90–$280 per side in parts. At a workshop, expect $240–$650 per side. If the knuckle is damaged during removal, costs can climb to $700–$2,000+ depending on the marque.

• Genuine Parts: These come directly in the vehicle manufacturer's branded packaging (e.g., a Porsche or Ferrari box). They are the exact components installed on the vehicle at the factory.
• OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Parts: Produced by the same tier-one manufacturers that supply the car brands (such as Bosch, Brembo, or Lemförder) but distributed in the supplier's own packaging. They offer the exact same quality as Genuine parts but at a more competitive price point.
• Aftermarket Parts: Components produced by independent third-party manufacturers. These are designed to meet or exceed original factory specifications, often providing a budget-friendly or performance-upgraded alternative.